JP RIETSCH
FRANCE, ALSACE, MITTELBERGHEIM
December is here and with it, one of our favourite seasonal arrivals. A march of flightless birds heralds the approaching festivities: JP Rietsch's iconic Crémant d'Alsace arrives! And remember, Penguins are for life, not just for Christmas!
As is often the case, the Penguins tend to fly at this time of year (no pun intended) - so if you were keen to get some stocked, we recommend ordering sooner rather than later.
Alongside the Penguins, we've received top-ups of the macerations, and the white litre among others - and have released more of the terroir-specific and Grand Cru cuvées, those are crying out for their place on the table to lift December's rich, festive dishes. Everything is detailed in full below.
Jean-Pierre has been at the helm of his family vineyards in the historic village of Mittelbergheim, Alsace for over 37 years now. Diligently organic, but working above and beyond in the parcels to ensure the resulting wines channel their terroir with both complexity and drinkability in equal measure.
SPARKLING
2023/24 Crémant Extra Brut Non Dose - Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris
The latest edition of the crémant is made from wines of the 2023 harvest, to which juice from 2024 has been added as spark. Consistently one of our all-time favourite sparkling wines. Exotic fruit and citrus up front, with a lively and saline attack which opens and continues to develop.
2022/23 Crémant Extra Brut Non Dose Magnum - Auxerrois, Chardonnay
Disgorged to order, the Magnums spend longer on the lees, developing a slightly richer profile, the signature salinity and acids still very much present. This year's magnum is made from wines of the warm 2022 vintage, sparked with fermenting must of the 2023 vintage.
LITRES & MACERATIONS
2024 - Tout Blanc Litre - Auxerrois, Riesling
Fresh acidity and lovely tension, a nice bit of texture from its time on lees, all press-direct after an overnight maceration to kickstart fermentation.
2023 - Demoiselle - Gewurztraminer
A really bright & expressive edition of this wine, alive with fruit and acid, very immediate - macerated Gewurz at its best.
2023 - Quand Le Chat - Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris from clay-limestone of Mittelbergheim and grés of Mutzig. A short infusion of whole-bunches under juice, the 2023 has great freshness and detail, bright with strawberry and herbal twist, just a little spice.
2024 - Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir
Light and alive, brambly fruit and bags of cherry alongside pithy bit of grapefruit, juicy and on the fruit in 2024. Drinking very well.
TERROIR CUVÉES
2024 - Les Mains Libres - Savagnin Rose
The wine Jean-Pierre makes every other year when not producing the perpetual Pas-a-Pas from this parcel. 50% whole bunch in direct-press juice, great detail, layered fruit, long and mineral with the lightest savoury oxidative note.
20/23 - Stein - Riesling
A top-up of the Riesling from the vines beside the house that JP planted with his father 30 years ago, the Leu dit Stein grown on Grey Marl and Limestone. A true terroir Riesling expression, multi-dimensional, long and mineral, ageing beautifully. The solar 2020 brings generosity and depth of fruit, the 2023 providing a line of tension and persisting saline minerality.
21/22/23/24 - La Nef Des Fou - Riesling
A beautiful expression of Riesling, hand harvested from the south/south-east facing Grand Cru vineyard, planted over marl, limestone and compacted sandstone. Seeing such extreme variability in vintages with the mood swings of climate change, Jean-Pierre has been saving barrels each year from this parcel as a way of finding true balance in the wine. Stone fruit, grapefruit, cultured butter, this one continues unfolding along its mineral line for quite a while.
2022 - Grand Cru Zotzenberg - Riesling
Zotzenberg is a south/south-east facing Grand Cru vineyard, planted over marl, limestone and compacted sandstone. 2022 was one of the hottest years on record, and whilst the wine still boasts Jean-Pierre's signature acidity and light touch, it is bolstered with a brilliant sun-kissed ripeness. Zotzenberg has been developing incredibly well in bottle the last few years, really singing.
