Glou Glou in France

One of the great things about running a small independent business is bringing you, our customers, fresh flavours to excite and intrigue your tastebuds. What follows is an attempt to describe a "road trip with wine" as "hard work"…

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Next Portfolio Tasting: Feb 24 2020

 
 
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Our first collaborative tasting of 2020 will take place at Duck Soup, 41 Dean St, Soho, London W1D 4PY.  We'll be joined by our usual co-conspirators from Otros Vinos, Wright's Wines and Beattie & Roberts.

What to expect: fresh new season energy with new releases due to arrive in the coming weeks.

Thank you to Rory, Pete, Bertie, Benedict, Clare, Tom and the rest of the Duck Soup crew for hosting us!

See you there!

WHOLESALE /TRADE ONLY

 

From the Heart of Burgundy: Domaine Dandelion

 
 
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Morgane & Christian

Beaune, Burgundy, France

 

Morgane and Christian farm a couple of hectares of old-vine Aligote, Pinot Noir and Gamay on various small parcels around the village of Meloisey - just over the hill from St Romain.

The harvest in Hautes Côtes de Beaune is nearly a month later than the rest of Burgundy. There is no mechanisation in the vineyards, only horses are used or – when the vineyards are too steep – worked by hand. They choose to spray raw milk on the vines instead of sulfur and no pumping or filtration is used. Grapes are pressed in an old, wood-beam, vertical-screw press, and aged in neutral oak under their house.

They produce just two wines - but what wines they are. Pure, bright and full of personality and the growers' vision. A real find considering how difficult it can be for small scale vignerons to exist in this part of France with the price of land being so high.

We were very lucky to get our hands on a limited amount of bottles of the Pinot Noir 2018 vintage:

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Now in Stock



Red

2018 (Hautes-Côtes-de Beaune) Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir
Whole bunch. No pigéage. 20 days of skin maceration in concrete tanks followed by 3 rounds of 'pigéage à pied' to release more sugar from the grapes before heading to the basket press (to avoid a surge of sugar during pressing). Aged in old barrels under their house. No added sulfur.


"2018 has overall been a good year. Not so much disease and no need to light any fires to prevent frost. There was a lot of rain in March, we thought it would be disastrous but in the end it wasn’t. The main problem ended up being drought during the summer months. We have harvested on the 15th of September, which was a quick and spontaneous decision: I was on my way back from Chandon (winery where Christian works) and drove past one of the vineyards. I stopped, tasted the grapes and realised it was time to go.

"In general, 2018 wasn't a typical year for Burgundy, the wines ended up with a much higher alcohol content than normal. What saved us were the colder nights, which helped to keep the balance and good acidity. All fermentations went well. The old tank struggled a bit at the end, so we added the lees from the other tank to help. As a result, the wine is rich, balanced and round. Less green than the more immediate 2017 vintage. The alcohol will integrate with time.

"Also, in 2018 we've had a lower yield than in 2017 for two reasons: 1) drought, the old vines suffered and 2) it was the second year of ploughing, therefore surface roots were cut (not intentionally), and the vines were not used to it. You could see the low vigour during pruning. This year during pruning we've noticed the vines look a lot stronger. It is satisfying to see the change with cover crops and ploughing, it took two years to get to this result."

- Morgane

 



As the stocks are really limitedplease let us know
ASAP if you would like some.

Once it's gone, it's gone!

WHOLESALE ONLY

 

A Chat with Roberto Henriquez

 
 
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Roberto Henriquez

Nacimiento, Bio-Bio, Chile

A native of the Chilean city of Concepción, Roberto – largely inspired by his uncle - has always dreamed of making wine. 

He studied to be an agronomist and enologist, then worked for large commercial wineries in Chile, South Africa and Canada. Returning to his homeland, Roberto spent some time with Louis Antoine Luyt, and this experience - as well as working with producers such as Mosse in France (Loire) - helped shape his perception of wine: natural winemaking was the path he wanted to follow.

Roberto is part of the very small-scale, zero-input agriculture and winemaking community of the Old South: the veteran farmers work traditionally, having never used chemicals. However nowadays, Chilean culture doesn’t pay much tribute to historic winemaking, and he felt he had to do something to try and keep tradition alive. 

Alex visited Roberto last summer:

"First of all, don't go to Chile during winter, it's very cold! And also very good for skiing. But seriously, I have learned a lot about a different approach to wine culture which I have never experienced before.

"Roberto has given real context to his wines and it was interesting to see the variety of different terroirs of País. We visited other winemakers in the area and were always welcomed with open arms, invited into their homes and served deep-fried Sopapilla bread which is meant for special occasions. Chile has an incredibly welcoming culture.

"One of my culinary highlights was visiting a food truck on the side of the road run by a lady who was selling oven-cooked empañadas with pickled green chilli and vinegar. She would sell out by 11.30am!

"Roberto has recently taken over a vineyard in Santa Juana, the 66th vineyard ever registered in Chile, which means it's hundreds of years old. The soils are clay, which give País more softness and elegance - so stay tuned!"



Do wine lovers think of Chile often when they consider the world's finest wines? The reality is that most do not, and therein lies a problem for the country's wine industry, as there are plenty of treasures to be found.



We've had a chat with Roberto:

What led you to be a natural winemaker?
"I have always dreamed of becoming a winemaker, since I was a child, I just didn't know which way I should go about it. After having initially worked with commercial wineries in Chile, South Africa and Canada I returned back to Chile and properly learned about the (nowadays widely discriminated) Pipeño winemaking style. It is a uniquely Chilean style that refers to wine stored in a pipa – a very large ageing vessel made of native Raulí beech wood. Culturally it means wine of and for the people. Grapes are traditionally fully destemmed, open fermented in lagar (massive foudres of raulí), foot-stomped and gravity-fed to pipa soon after fermentation so it can be enjoyed quicker. After experiencing the way the vines were treated at the big commercial wineries it was clear to me that it wasn't the way I wanted to work. What I wanted to do was continuing the Chilean tradition combined with what I have learned from the small natural wine producers i have worked with in France. I wanted to work with our traditional grape varieties in respect to the vines and soils, this is very important to me. My whole family is involved with the work around the vineyard and my uncle, who inspired me to become a winemaker, is also still producing his own wines in Itata, but on a small scale."


How do you treat your soils?
"In general, we do everything by hand. We cut the grass in spring, use animals for ploughing when we can. But the challenge we have here is that it is difficult to find people who will work the vines for you, and that is one of the main reasons why less and less winemakers are working traditionally. In this coastal range we've got 1000ha of winemaking regions and unfortunately most of it is worked with machinery.  Everyone is doing what they have to in order to keep their vines alive and survive financially. Unfortunately a lot of them then end up with cheap commercial wines which are sold in bulk and never even get bottled, which is a shame. About 60-70 years ago traditional winemaking was the way to go but nowadays it is a big challenge to keep up financially as well as logistically."


[Background: In the 19th century, as mining wealth grew in Santiago, the elite travelled to Europe and gained a taste for European culture and in particular, French wines. French varietals were brought over and planted on a massive scale in the central region close to the capital. As opposed to the very small-scale, zero-input agriculture and winemaking of the Old South, these modern plantings heralded the start of industrial viticulture and vinification. This continues to be winemaking based on unsustainable agriculture (heavy irrigation and chemical sprays) and the exploitation of traditional growers. The box wine and export industry relies on paying incredibly low prices for país grapes and blending them with French varietals to increase colour, alcohol and extraction. The industrialisation of winemaking in the hot centre definitively pushed small growers in the south out of the market, and now viticulture is dying as the price of grapes set by the monopoly of Concha y Toro, is too often below cost of production.
Source: www.cultivarwines.com]

So are there any other natural winemakers around?
"A couple, but I would say that in Chile in general there are only about 10. The natural winemaking philosophy is not easy to find here as there is no market in Chile for heritage wines. There are thousands of winemakers but most of them produce their wine commercially and sell it to big corporations. Also, as there is no official regulation around natural wine, there are loads of growers who say their wine is 'natural', even though it isn't, at all. There is a thin line between being honest about how exactly you make your wine, and making things up as that will bring you better sales."

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What influence does the soil have on your wines?
"For example, granite soils are typical for this coastal region of Chile. I find that they give personality but at the same time still leave plenty of room for the grapes to express themselves. So overall, I'd say granite soils are more neutral. While other soils affect the wine much more, I find that granite soils are less intrusive and therefore offer a good balance - give a hand to the vine, without leaving a heavy mark."

When will you start harvest? 
"We usually harvest here between March and April. Your spring, our autumn. For the last two years, we've had two rather cold seasons. A cold and late spring, cooler summer and generally low sugar concentration."

How noticeable is climate change in your region?
"I can tell now generally there is more cold but also humidity with hot summers, whereas 10 years ago each season was more distinct. There is also overall less rain. I wouldn't say there are catastrophic changes happening over here, just more of an unnatural shift."

Have you finished building your winery?
"So, my winery is opposite my house. We are constantly improving it but it is almost finished! We have started from nothing so that was a big challenge for us."

What are your plans for the future?
"I would like to expand and build another winery in Itata - this is not possible at the moment, but maybe one day!" 

If you could visit any other wine region in the world, where would it be and why?
"There are many that I want to visit. But especially the Canaries, because this is where our viticulture here in Chile comes from. The first ever vines brought to South America came from the Canaries. Each year I want to go but I haven't managed yet!"

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Now in Stock


White

2018 (Itata) Rivera del Notro White - Moscatel, Chasselas, Semillon
Manual harvest. A blend made with three traditional varieties from the coastal area of the Itata valley. 100 year old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in stainless steel (80%) and oak barrels (20%). Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Itata) Molino del Ciego - Semillon
Manual harvest. 100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in stainless steel (60%)  and oak barrels (40%). Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Itata) Corinto Super Estrella (Magnum) - Chasselas
Manual harvest. Chasselas, known in the area as Corinto. A limited production of only 400 magnums.100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling."This variety is not very appreciated by the locals but for us, it is a treasure."

2018 (Itata) Fundo Union White (Magnum) - Semillon
Manual harvest. The vineyard is located in the coastal area of the Itata valley, 8 km away from the sea. 100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling. 

Red

2018 (Bio-Bio) Rivera del Notro Red - Pais
Manual harvest. 200-year-old vines located on an alluvial piedmont 800m away from the Bío-Bío river. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in stainless steel tanks. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Bio-Bio) Santa Cruz de Coya - Pais
Manual harvest. 200-year-old vines. Vineyard located on the foothills of Nahuelbuta coastal range, Bío-Bío. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in 10-year-old oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling.

2018 (Bio-Bio) Santa Cruz de Coya (Magnum) - Pais

2018 (Itata) Fundo Union Red - Pais
Manual harvest. The vineyard is located in the coastal area of the Itata valley, at  8 km from the sea. 100-year-old vines. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in 10-year-old oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling. 

2018 (Itata) Ultimate Prensa (Magnum) - Moscatel, Pais
Manual harvest. 100-year-old vines. Last press made with musts from the whole harvest. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts. Aged in oak barrels. Unfiltered. Small amount of sulfites added at bottling. - "This wine is a one off production."

Roberto will be in London Feb 7 - 9,
for wine tasting requests, get in touch
here 

For any wholesale and stock enquiries, please contact hello@winesutb.com

 

A Happy New 2020

 
 
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We would like to wish a very happy new year to all of our customers.

Wines Under The Bonnet was created in 2015 with the idea to promote naturally made wines we love and we wouldn't still be here if it wasn't for your support.

2019 has been a crazy and exciting ride for us: we have welcomed Tom to the team, Basile has relocated back to his hometown in France and is now our on site connection to our Muscadet growers, and - last but not least - we have added six new producers to our portfolio:


Ferme de Sept Lunes
Mataburro
2P Production
La Grange Aux Belles
Complemen'terre
Terres de ROA


We've got some very exciting plans for 2020, so watch this space!

Cheers and santé,

Bas, Al & Tom

 

La Boire - Nantes

 
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What is La Boire?

The 3rd edition of La Boire took place on Saturday 7 and Sunday 8 December 2019 in Nantes. A natural wine fair, organized by Pinards and Jus d'Ancenis with 18 winemakers from all over France.

This is where we’ve spent our Sunday: tasting promising new cuvées and meeting some familiar faces…

 
 
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Complémen'terre 

Le Pallet, Loire-Atlantique, France


Both Marion and Manu were born in Muscadet and have been around vineyards their whole lives. After a long time away working for winemakers in New Zealand (Felton Road Winery) and Chile (Domaine Clos Ouvert), they settled in 2013 in the village of le Pallet and work now with three grape varieties: Melon de Bourgogne (8 ha), Folle Blanche (0,68 ha) at la Haye-Fouassière, and Gamay (0,60 ha). The wines are all vinified by parcel with the aim of showing off the varied volcanic terroir of the region.

What’s new: 2018 Potion Mama | Pet Nat

Manu: “ ‘Potion Mama’ was originally meant to be called ‘Potion Magique’, but this name is already in use within the beverage industry. So ‘Mama’ comes from our names: MAnu and MArion. In addition it also refers to Mother Earth.”

Folle Blanche (20%) and Melon de Bourgogne (80%) grown on othogneiss and silt. Aged for 14 months.

2018 has been a hot vintage and the end result is a dry and aromatic pet nat.

 
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Rémi Sédès

Coteaux d’Ancenis, Nantes, France

Hailing from the Jura, Rémi studied agronomy when he arrived in the area to live with his Nantes-born wife. He worked for a couple of years with Vincent Caillé, and then spent time honing his red winemaking skills in Bordeaux before setting up on his own in 2013.

What’s new: 2018 Samplemousse | Rosé

Hand harvested Gamay, cold macerated for 4 hours and then fermented in cellar in fibreglass for 2 - 3 weeks. On lees until bottling.

Why ‘Samplemousse’? In France you’ve got a drink called Pamplemousse Rosé which has a slightly sweet, easygoing grapefruit taste that is more approachable for entry level wine drinkers.

Remi always found that the wine from his granite parcel reminded him of grapefruit, so ‘Samplemousse’ is his own, naturally farmed version, of the French Pamplemousse Rosé.

 
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Les Terres Bleues

France, Loire-Atlantique, La Chapelle-Glain

Xavière Hardy is a tough, determined woman who makes amazing juice while leaving as little mark on the land as possible. Enlisting the help of Ancenis grower Jacque Caroger, she lobbied the local council, who eventually relented and gave her permission to plant her vineyard. After analysing the terroir she chose Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Grolleau.

What’s new: 2018 Blanc Noir | Red

100% Black Grolleau, grown on blueschist. Direct press then fermented for 8 days in vats with and matured in barrels for 8 months. No added sulfur. The "Blanc de Noir" cuvée has produced a dry white wine, with a beautiful freshness and vivacity.

Xaviere: “I tried by chance the "Blanc de Noir", with a Munster and I really liked it because this wine came to "counterbalance" and "refresh" the Munster cheese which has a strong personality. Overall, it's typically the little white one to enjoy in the late morning, with oysters on the go!”